What Size Bindings Do I Need?

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer to this question, as the size of bindings you’ll need depends on a few factors, including the size of your snowboard and your own personal preferences. However, we can give you some general guidelines to help you choose the right size bindings for your snowboard.

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Snowboard Bindings

Bindings are one of the most important parts of your snowboard set-up. They are what connect your boots to your board, and without them, you would just be sliding around on the snow with no control. Bindings come in all different sizes, so it is important to know what size you need. In this article, we will help you figure out what size bindings you need.

How bindings attach to boards

Bindings attach to the board in one of two ways: 4×4 or Channel.

A 4×4 binding has four screws that are placed in a square pattern on the binding baseplate. The vast majority of bindings on the market use this system, as it is compatible with just about any snowboard. You will need a set of 4×4 disc — these have a square cutout in the center that allows them to fit over the screw pattern and securely attach to your board.

Channel bindings have, you guessed it, a channel running along the binding baseplate into which you insert your snowboard. Some companies’ boards come with an insert pack specific to that brand, which you then use to install your bindings according to the provided instructions (usually four screws secure each binding). Other companies’ boards come pre-drilled with channels compatible with various bindings on the market; again, you will need to follow the included instructions for installation.

Once you know which system your board uses, check out our selection of 4×4 and Channel bindings and get ready to strap in!

Strap-in bindings

Most snowboards will have either four-hole or Burton 3D bindings. Four-hole bindings will fit any standard four-hole snowboard, Burton 3D bindings only fit Burton boards with the special channel system. If you buy a used board, make sure the bindings will fit before you leave the store.

There are two main types of bindings, strap-in and step-in. Strap-ins are the most common and most versatile. They have straps that go over your boots to hold your feet in. Step-in bindings are easier to get in and out of but can be more difficult to use if you fall because you have to line up your boot perfectly with the binding before you click in.

Size is important when it comes to bindings because you want them to fit snugly without being too tight. Bindings usually come in sizes S (5-7), M (8-10), or L (11+). Women’s sizes are usually smaller than men’s sizes, so be sure to check the size chart before you buy. You can always ask a salesperson for help if you’re unsure.

Step-in bindings

Step-in bindings are the simplest and most popular type of bindings. They have a toe loop that you step into and then strap your boot in. Moststep-in bindings will have two straps, one over the toe and one over the ankle. Some step-in bindings have a ratchet system instead of straps.

Most snowboards will have holes drilled into them for binding mounts. If your snowboard does not have these holes, you can get a set of binding discs that screw into the top of the board. These discs will prevent the bindings from sliding around on the board when you are riding.


Alpine ski bindings are sized by the boot sole length, which is different from alpine ski boot sizes. While ski boot sizes are standardized by Burton, Salomon, Nordica, etc., binding sizes are not. The most important thing to know is that you need to match your binding to the ski boot you will be using it with.

Binding width

Binding width is one of the most important factors to consider when buying bindings. The width of your bindings should be matched to the width of your skis. If the bindings are too wide, they will not fit properly on your skis. If the bindings are too narrow, they will not provide adequate support.

The width of your bindings should be matched to the width of your skis. If the bindings are too wide, they will not fit properly on your skis. If the bindings are too narrow, they will not provide adequate support.

Boot size

Boot size is the most important factor in binding selection. Your boot size will determine the bindings’ true size, and the binding manufacturer’s size chart will tell you what boot sizes fit into each binding model. Always buy bindings based on your boots’ size, not your skis’ waist width.

Binding manufacturers use different ways to indicate binding sizes. Some measure in centimeters, some in millimeters, and some use letter designations like S/M or L/XL. The most important thing is that you use the same method of measurement that the manufacturer is using.

For example, a Rossignol FKS 120 binding is designed to fit a boot with a sole length of 305-365mm. If you’re buying this binding for an Atomic Redster 130 ski, the ski’s waist width of 76mm would be irrelevant. The only thing that matters is whether your boot’s sole length falls within the 305-365mm range that Rossignol has specified for this binding model.


You might think that all bindings are created equal, but that’s not the case. In fact, bindings come in all different shapes and sizes. So, how do you know which bindings are right for you? It all comes down to adjustability.


There are two primary considerations when it comes to highbacks: height and cant. Height is pretty straightforward–you want the top of the highback to extend at least to the top of your calf, and preferably a bit higher. If it doesn’t, you run the risk of excess leverage on the highback, which can lead to fatigue and reduce control. As for cant, that refers to the angle at which the highback rests relative to the baseplate. Zero-degree canted bindings are perfectly flat, while positive canting angles the highbacks forward (toward your toes) by a few degrees. This is designed to align your leg more naturally with the binding, reducing fatigue and boot-out (when your foot pops out of the binding during a fall).


If you’re looking for the most support and downhill performance, choose a binding with an alpine toe piece and an adjustable DIN. DIN refers to the range of release settings on the binding, which you can adjust to match your skiing ability and weight. If you’re a beginner or lighter skier, you’ll want a lower DIN setting; if you’re more advanced or heavier, you’ll need a higher setting.

Alpine touring bindings have both an alpine toe piece and a separate touring heel, which allows your binding to pivot while you skin uphill. When you reach the top of the lift, you can lock the heel down for alpine skiing. Some bindings have switch plates that make it easy to change between modes; others require that you remove your ski to change modes.

Heel cups

The heel cup is the back part of the binding that wraps around your boot. Most binding companies have different sized heel cups to accommodate different boot sizes. For example, Burton bindings come in small, medium and large heel cups. You’ll need to make sure you get the right size heel cup to fit your boot. If the heel cup is too big, it will feel sloppy and if it’s too small, it will be uncomfortable.

Riding style

Depending on what style of riding you do will ultimately dictate what size binding you need. If you are strictly a park rider, then you can get away with a smaller binding. If you are someone who rides all-mountain or powder, you will need a larger binding to give you the support that you need.


If you answered “all of the above,” you’re probably an all-mountain rider. You like to ride the whole mountain, taking whatever it has to offer. You don’t want to be pigeonholed into one particular type of riding. You like to do it all, and you want a binding that can do it all with you.

An all-mountain binding will have a moderate to medium-stiff flex, and will often have a highback that can be manipulated into different positions for different types of riding. They will also have a variety of straps and buckles that allow you to get a snug, comfortable fit no matter what kind of boot you’re wearing. All-mountain bindings are often heavier and more expensive than other bindings, but they are also the most versatile and can be used for any type of riding.


Freestyle bindings are the most popular, all-purpose bindings for specific board designs. They are intended for use in the halfpipe and on jumps, but can also be used for spinning and carving. They have a soft flex and high back for increased mobility, and a wide binding plate for increased stability.


When it comes the bindings, bigger does not necessarily mean better. The most important thing is that your bindings fit both your boots and your boards. Bindings are available in a wide range of sizes to fit just about any boot size out there, but they also come in different styles to suit your riding style.

If you’re just getting started, it’s a good idea to rent some gear so you can try out different setups before you buy anything. That way, you can figure out what size bindings you need and what kind of riding you like best.

There are three main types of bindings: freestyle, all-mountain, and freeride. Each has its own benefits and drawbacks, so it’s important to choose the right pair for your needs.

Freestyle bindings are typically smaller and lighter than other types of bindings. They’re designed for flexibility and mobility, which is perfect for riders who want to do tricks and ride in the park. However, these bindings aren’t always as durable as other types, so they might not be ideal for everyday riding or big mountain terrain.

All-mountain bindings are a good middle-of-the-road option. They’re strong enough to handle anything the mountain throws at them, but they’re still relatively lightweight and flexible. These bindings are a good choice for riders who want to do a little bit of everything—from groomers to powder days—but don’t need the specialized features of freestyle or freeride bindings.

Freeride bindings are the largest and heaviest type of binding. They’re designed for strength and stability, which is essential for riding big mountain terrain or powder conditions. However, these bindings can be less comfortable for long days on the hill or extended park sessions.